Collar Commands
Note: the word Collar in the Extra menu is dimmed. It serves only as a subtitle for the section of commands.
The next three menu commands refer to the various collar options available to you. The first item is a dimmed out 'label'. It serves no function other than identifying the menu commands that relate to collars.
None
This command turns the collar you are viewing off. By default, this command is active, and will remain so until you choose a join mode (see below).
Joined at Back
Joined at Front
These two menu commands allow you to choose where the collar will be joined (at the center back or the center front). The decision is controlled by the location of the opening on your garment. For example jackets that button up the front will utilize a collar 'joined at the back' (typically laid on the fold for cutting purposes). A dress that zips up the center back will utilize a collar that is joined in the front. When you select your join mode, a check mark will appear by the option chosen, a collar will appear on the screen and collar style menus will appear in the periwinkle-colored Style Bar.
At the present time, most of the Full-Roll collars do not join in the front. These include the convertible, shirt (1 and 2 piece) and wing collars. All Hood styles do not join at front as well. These styles are always placed on garments that open at center front.
When you compare the 'joined in back' vs. 'joined in front' modes for all collars that work in both modes, you will see that the collar actually flips vertically, or rotates around an invisible circle to alternate between the join modes. If you turn on the final pattern mode (Display>Final Pattern), you can see the notches necessary for matching the collar to the neckline. This will help you understand how the collar is displayed on screen and how it will be attached to the garment.
By default, collars are always initially shown with front and back, and left and right sides displayed. If you want to view a half collar only, click inside the unwanted side and press ‘h’ to hide the piece. To view both sides again, select the entire pattern piece (or click inside to select it), and press either ‘i’ (independent), j’ (joined) or 'a' (adjacent) on the keyboard.
Hoods can be found in the Collar style menus. These should be displayed in independent mode or one side should be hidden. This is due to the nature of their shape, which often is contoured and thus crosses the center line.
Further discussion on collars appears in the Design Discussion in this Help file or in Chapter 8 of your Garment Designer manual.
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