Testing the Fit of Your Measurements
 
In patternmaking and garment fitting, there are a few places where you have some control over the fit of your pattern. First, the accuracy of your measurements plays an important role in the accuracy of the fit. Secondly, how a software program adds ease to body measurements is a factor. Lastly, your personal preferences for fit and comfort enter into the equation. People vary according to how they like a garment to fit. For this reason, we have added several options for you to choose from to control the garment ease as well as preferred armhole depth. These options exist in the Garment command/dialog box of the Options menu. Once you determine your preference, you may set your document defaults to record your preferences permanently.
 
Now that you have entered your measurements, you are ready to test the fit of a garment. Of course, if you like, you may work with the standard size closest to your body measurements, but the best fit will be achieved through the use of a Refined-Fit sloper.
 
It is always advisable to turn on the Sloper, so that you may see how much ease is being added to your garment (On the Display menu, choose Show Both). Turning on the grid lets you quickly see how many inches or cm. of ease exists. (On the Display menu, click Show Grid).
 
The best style to make, to test the fit of the program is a style that is most like the type of clothing you wear. Thus, if everything you own is extremely fitted, choose a more fitted style. If most of your clothing is moderately fitted, choose average-fit styles. There is no reason to sew a garment that is not appropriate to the style of clothing you wear. For the example below, we will choose a relatively fitted garment/style as our sample.
 
Choosing Styles

To remove most of the ease of a garment, you may choose the following style options of a Basic Top;
Category: Top
Top Group: Basic
Top Style: Fitted or Very Fitted
Shoulder: Sloped
Neck Group: Round
Neck Style: Standard
Darts: Side and/or Body
Sleeve Group Separate
Sleeve Style: Set-In
Armhole: Standard
Sleeve Shape: Tapered
Sleeve Length: Long
 
If you want to test fit a contoured top style, choose the following:

Category:  Top
Top Group:  Contoured  
Top Style:  Fitted or Very Fitted
Shoulder:  Sloped
Neck Group:  Round
Neck Style  Standard
Darts:  Side and/or Body
Sleeve Group  Separate
Sleeve Style:  Set-In
Armhole:  Standard
Sleeve Shape:  Tapered
Sleeve Length:  Long
*Note: You may want to adjust the side seam contour if you add a body dart (dependent upon desired level of fit).
 
For either of the above options, you may choose to use a dart if you want to test a more fitted look. Choose the Trued Dart option, and adjust the width of the end of the dart if necessary (see the discussion on darts in Chapter 8).
 
If you want to test fit a skirt style, choose the following

Category:  Bottom
Subcategory:  Skirt
Skirt Group:  Straight  
Skirt Style:  Standard
Waist:  Waistband Template
Waist Darts:  Single or Double Trued
This skirt style has a minimum of ease at the hips.
 
 
Print the Pattern
Add seam allowances to the pattern (using the Additions menu). Prior to printing the pattern, ensure that you have the Sloper displayed and the grid turned on. These will print on the pattern and can be used for reference. Print a full scale pattern and tape it together. Then, cut a 'muslin' (of sample fabric) and transfer the waist level, darts, etc. to the muslin so that they can be used for reference. Sew the garment with a basting thread.
 
 
Evaluating the Fit
Once you have sewn a garment, try it on and evaluate it for its fit. Make notes of how the garment fits and record this information below. If some part of the garment seems to be extremely strange, first check the body measurement that you suspect affects that part of the garment. As hard as one tries, it is always possible that a number may get transposed, or a measurement was taken inaccurately. A Sloper Fit Evaluation Chart is on the next page. Use this as a means of evaluating your fit.