Understanding Refined-Fit Slopers
 
The Refined-Fit sloper will look slightly different than the Simple-Fit sloper.
The following differences exist:
 
1. Front vs. Back Sloper   Widths
If you input separate Front vs. Back sloper body measurements, your sloper widths will generally be different. This allows garments to hang properly at the side, as the fabric is distributed correctly in the proper places.
 
2. Front vs. Back Neckline   Widths
If you entered a different measurement for the Front vs. Back shoulder width, the neckline widths will vary. Typically, the neckline is wider across the back.
 
3. Differing Left vs. Right Measurements
If you entered different Left vs. Right measurements (such as shoulder seam lengths, shoulder depth, or high bust to apex), you may want to view the full sloper (left and right) as the sides will differ. You will need to print both the left and right sides of the pattern.
 
4. The Upper Armhole Curve
The armhole curve recognizes your upper chest width measurement, generally causing the upper armhole curve to angle in slightly. Test that you have taken the Upper Chest Width measurement accurately, as you do not want this curve to angle in too much. If it does, you will lose the gentle shaping of the upper armhole.
 
5. The Lower Armhole Curve
On occasion, you may see a double-line lower armhole curve on your sloper (see the illustration above). This results when there is a certain measurement discrepancy between the armhole depth and the upper arm circumference measurements. Let's examine Abby's sloper, from our Custom Library. We'll begin by turning on her sloper and the dimensions.
1. Turn on the Sloper by clicking on Show Both on the Display menu.
2. Turn on dimensions by clicking on Show Dimensions on the Display menu.
3. Click on the Custom Sloper library and slide down to Abby. Release the mouse button.
4. On the Sloper menu, click Edit. The Sloper dialog box opens.
 
Examine Abby’s measurements in the Sloper dialog box. You will see that her armhole depth is 5.75 inches and her upper arm circumference is 14 inches. The relationship between these two measurements is what flags a situation and results in Garment Designer creating a double underarm curve. Abby’s armhole circumference will result in sleeves that need to be a certain width (in order to get around her arm). The girth of the sleeve needs to be at least 14.5 inches or more in order to allow some ease for comfort. If you display the grid (Show Grid command of the Display menu), and examine the sloper armholes, you will see that there is over an inch difference between Abby’s personal armhole depth and the one Garment Designer creates. Abby’s physical armhole depth is 5.75 inches and the sloper’s armhole is 7 inches. Designer needs an armhole depth of 7 inches in order to allow for a sleeve girth of 14 plus inches and build an appropriate sleeve cap that suits Abby’s armhole inset. Thus, the program creates both lines so you are aware of the situation.
 
6. The Bust Apex
Refined-Fit slopers display accurately where your bust apex is positioned. Simple-Fit slopers simply display an approximation.
 
7. The Hip Curve
Refined-Fit slopers use two hip measurements to create the hip curve. These are the full hip and the high hip measurements. The high hip measurement is taken at half the distance between the waist and the full hip. Designer will draw the hip line so that it extends from the waist to the high hip and then on to the full hip. Although the patterns generally do not divide the hip curve into two parts, you can see how your body works with the curve and adjust the pattern curve if necessary, by changing the arc/shape of the curve.
 
8. The Sleeve Cap and Wrist
The Sleeve Cap of a Refined-Fit sloper will generally not be balanced, between the front vs. back sleeve. Generally, the front armhole will be slightly longer, however, if darts are used, it will become shorter. The front armhole will angle in slightly according to the Upper Chest Width measurement. In addition, the lower front armhole curve starts lower in the armhole than the back. These factors create different armhole lengths, Front vs. Back, and they result in a sleeve cap that differs front to back. Often if a cap is imbalanced, front to back, the wrist of the sleeve will be as well.
 
9. The Side Seam and Body Darts
If a side dart is inserted in a bodice, Garment Designer will remove some of the fullness of the armhole as it opens a dart. If a body dart is inserted into a bodice, Designer will build the dart according to the 1/2 the width of your skirt dart(s), unless a contoured style is chosen (in which case the dart width is halved). If you want to use a body dart on a short bodice, Designer will still add the full dart. Simply ignore the lower portion of the dart.